Roast meat chef, 86, returns to work after closing Chinatown stall: ‘I can go on for another 4 or 5 years’
An 86-year-old roast meat chef with more than 60 years of experience has returned to the kitchen, about four years after closing his popular Chinatown stall due to a manpower shortage.
Cho Siew Wan, who ran the former Old Master Roasted Grill stall in Chinatown, now works at 116 Shao La on the first floor of People’s Park Food Centre.
Despite his age, the veteran chef remains hands-on, starting work at 7.30am daily and personally tending to the roasting.
Cho told Shin Min Daily News that he first learnt the trade from his Hong Kong-born father when he was 17.
He took a break after closing his Chinatown stall about four years ago, but later joined local Chinese restaurant chain, Peach Garden. However, he eventually left because the working hours were too long.
He returned to the trade about two years ago after being invited by Liu Li, 49, the owner of 116 Shao La and a neighbour he has known for more than 20 years.
Liu said Cho’s extensive experience gives his roast meat a traditional, old-school flavour.
Each day, Cho prepares about five batches of roast meat. Each batch takes around 40 minutes, during which he has to stand by the oven, monitor the heat and turn the meat before finishing work in the afternoon.
For Cho, returning to work is also a way to keep himself occupied.
“It’s boring to stay at home. I just walk up and down the stairs, and the day passes like that. It’s better to come out and work — time goes by faster,” he said.
Regular customers seek out his old-school flavour
Word of Cho’s return has spread, with former customers making their way to his new stall to look for the taste they remember.
“Many old customers heard that I’m here and made a special trip to buy from us. What we roast by hand is different from mass-produced products from factories.
“Regular customers can tell the difference as soon as they taste it,” he said.
Cho said he has grown accustomed to working with roast meat after spending most of his life in the trade.
He considers himself to be in relatively good health, apart from common chronic conditions such as high blood pressure, high blood sugar and high cholesterol.
Asked about retirement, he said he was confident he could continue working for a few more years.
“I can go on for another four or five years! My legs are still strong, and as long as I can walk and run, I’ll keep working. I’ll stop when I can no longer do it,” he said.
Apprentices opened their own businesses
Over the years, the 86-year-old has passed on his skills to three or four apprentices, who have since started businesses of their own.
Some have opened roast meat shops, while others have gone on to run factories.
Although they have long completed their apprenticeships, Cho said they still remember him, visiting every Chinese New Year with gifts and affectionately calling him “shifu” (master).
His advice to those learning the trade is to take their work seriously and maintain consistent quality.
“I always tell them that if they’re going to do something, they should do it properly. Don’t be half-baked — you must maintain your standards,” he said.
Cho has a daughter and four granddaughters, all of whom support his decision to continue working.
His granddaughters have graduated from university and entered the workforce.
He said his family understands that he does not like sitting around at home and has not urged him to retire, as long as he is happy working.
His daughter, however, reminds him to be careful and avoid injuring himself while on the job.
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