Halal restaurant Porta Porta closing after 33 years, owner’s son hopes mum can ‘finally enjoy life’
Arrivederci, Porta Porta.
When this 33-year-old institution known for its halal Italian cuisine announced that it would close on Dec 31, fans made sure that its owner, former 1980s singer Rozianah Baharudin, knew how they felt.
“So many of our happiest moments have happened in your restaurant,’ said one customer.
She deserves the rest, said another. “Please take time to do what you love.”
And one proclaimed: “This one hurts extra.”
Customers will clearly miss Rozianah as much as they will miss the food.
One thanked her for not just sharing her love for Italian cuisine but also for her “warmth, generosity and hospitality”.
“I have long encouraged her to retire”
But for her son Danesh Ettore Laino, 37, it was time for his 65-year-old mother to catch up on more than three decades of missed holidays and well-deserved rest.
He told Berita Harian that his mother’s age was the main reason behind the decision to close, although he knows that the decision would be painful for her.
After all, Porta Porta was a business she had started with his late father, Antonino Laino, in 1993.
What began as a catering business gradually expanded into a restaurant, now located at 32 Jalan Pari Burong, near Simpang Bedok.
The couple had spent five years living in Carrara, Tuscany, where Rozianah honed her skills in Italian cooking by watching her husband and her mother-in-law prepare meals.
Porta Porta subsequently became known for its traditional southern Italian dishes, including Farfalle Con Salsa Di Gamberi, a butterfly-shaped pasta served with creamy prawn sauce, and seafood pasta Spaghetti Di Pesce.
She provided the entertainment, too.
Rozianah was also known to fill the restaurant with her singing, adding a personal touch to the dining experience.
According to CNA Lifestyle, Danesh recalled evenings when his father would play the guitar while his mother sang, sometimes with customers joining in.
Rising costs and manpower challenges
But running a family restaurant has not been easy, particularly with rising operating costs and difficulties finding staff. And now, Porta Porta joins the growing list of restaurant closures.
Danesh told Berita Harian that Singapore’s food and beverage industry had changed considerably over the years.
“Family restaurants are hit harder,” he said.
Despite the challenges, Danesh said the relationships built with customers and staff remained among the family’s most treasured memories.
For some customers, the restaurant had been part of their lives for decades.
One recalled going on dates with her husband at Porta Porta when it was still located in Changi. The couple are now married with four children and have continued visiting the restaurant at its Bedok location.
While the family has no plans to relocate Porta Porta, Danesh told CNA Lifestyle that they would be open to someone taking over the business and continuing his parents’ legacy.
Otherwise, the restaurant will close for good at the end of the year.
Son hopes mum can finally see the world
For Danesh, the greatest comfort in closing Porta Porta is knowing that his mother can finally take a break after devoting so much of her life to the restaurant.
He hopes she will have the chance to travel and enjoy the holidays she has missed over the past 33 years.
Describing her as the most hardworking person he knows, he said: “I hope Mum can finally enjoy life and see the world.”
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